Feature Article in UltraRunning, November 2010
In 1991, as Jerry Dunn was running across America, one of his overnight hosts was regaling him with stories and said, “My uncle used to say ‘a lean horse runs a long race’”. When, 14 years later, Jerry made the decision to create a new ultra running event in the Black Hills of South Dakota, the name he should give the race was obvious. The Lean Horse Ultra debuted in 2005 with the goal of providing a venue friendly to first-time 100 milers or veterans seeking a fast time while also offering a 50 mile and 50K option. The course includes a relatively gentle profile (total elevation gain is approximately 7,200 feet) and is void of technical single-track or lung searing elevations, providing runners an opportunity to face off against the challenge of covering 100 miles without those added factors that make ultras such as Leadville or Hardrock both intimidating and, in their own way, appealing. Of course, running 100 miles is never truly easy and Lean Horse offers its share of challenges. If one can conquer those challenges, a fast time or a finish under the 30 hour limit, whatever the goal may be, is certainly possible.
Beginning and finishing in Hot Springs, SD, the Lean Horse 100 starts off with a few miles of pavement along the streets and bike paths of Hot Springs before hitting gravel, skirting around Coldbrook Reservoir and onto the now infamous Argyle Road, which offers approximately 11 miles of rolling hills that prove especially trying on the return trip when runners have over 83 miles on their feet. At mile 16.6, the course exits Argyle Road and takes to the Mickelson Trail for the remaining 33.4 miles to the turnaround point. The Mickelson Trail is a rails to trails project that was recently inducted into the Rails to Trails Hall of Fame. The railroad line that would eventually become the Mickelson was constructed by the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad in 1890, just one year after South Dakota achieved statehood. Upon its completion, the 110 mile rail line connected Edgemont in the southern Black Hills to Deadwood in the northern Hills. To ease the strain on trains of the era, grades along the route were kept to less than four percent, resulting in long, gentle and very runable ascents and descents today. The rail line was abandoned in 1983 and conversion of the railroad to a hiking/biking trail was heavily supported by South Dakota governor George Mickelson, after whom the trail was eventually named. The first six miles of trail were dedicated in 1991 and the entire 110 miles were completed in 1998. Unfortunately, Governor Mickelson died in a plane crash in 1993 and never saw his full vision come to fruition. Today, the trail features 15 trailheads, over 100 trestle bridges and 4 rock tunnels. The Mickelson is home to three separate events produced by Lean Horse Productions; between the Lean Horse Ultra, the Deadwood-Mickelson Trail Marathon and the Run Crazy Horse marathon, one could cover nearly the entire trail on foot.
For the 100 mile race, a total of ten aid stations greet runners two times each along the out and back course. The first, at miles 4/96 is Coldbrook, along the shores of Coldbrook Reservoir. At mile 11/89, providing a brief respite from the hills of Argyle Road is the Morph aid station (so named because two aid stations from previous years were morphed into one). At the terminus of Argyle Road (or the beginning, depending which direction you’re traveling) is the Argyle Loop aid station (miles 16.6/83.4). A relatively short jaunt on the Mickelson Trail takes runners to Lime Kiln at miles 20/80, a great spot to get some locally roasted coffee on the return trip. The small town of Pringle is home to the next aid station at miles 24/76, just past which the 50 mile runners turnaround for their return voyage. At mile 30/70 is the Carroll Creek aid station, which has become famous for aid station captain John’s grilled cheese sandwiches. Carroll Creek also represented the finish line for the 50K race. At miles 35.5/64.5, runners enter the town of Custer in the center of the Black Hills and home to the Harbach Park aid station. From Harbach Park, a long uphill grind ensues to the Mountain aid station at 40.5/59.5, which is soon followed by a nice, long downhill run to the Oreville aid station at 45.2/54.8 and the Buckaroo aid station, graciously set up in some volunteer’s back yard, at 49.2/50.8. Of course the uphills on the way out become downhills on the way back and vice versa, but overall the course is a net uphill going out and then back down on the return trip to Hot Springs.
They say that ignorance is bliss and maybe that’s sometimes true of first time 100 mile runners. If you’ve never experienced running 100 miles, maybe it’s easier to not overthink things and instead just go out and run. Whether that’s true or not, Lean Horse has been a friendly venue for first timers recently. Last year, an astounding 80% of the runners attempting their first 100 completed the race. Among those runners was the first place female. The 2010 edition of the Lean Horse 100 would once again prove just how friendly to first timers this course can be. Of the 148 runners who started the race, 53 were first timers and they went on to dominate the results. Thirty-six out of those 53 (68%), would finish, a markedly lower percentage than in 2009. However, where they ended up in the results was the surprise of the 2010 race. Eight out of the top 10 finishers overall were first timers, including the overall winner. Mike Vance of Omaha, NE, arrived in Hot Springs seeking his first 100 mile finish. In the end, he was not only a finisher, but the overall winner and crossed the line just one minute short of Akos Konya’s course record. Vance finished in an impressive 15:25, over two hours ahead of 2nd place finisher Blake Thompson from Huntsville, AL. Coming in third was Mike Hinterberg of Fort Collins, CO, another first timer, in 19:12. In the women’s race, Anita Fromm of Colorado Springs, CO, won in 22 hours, nearly three and half hours ahead of 2nd place Jennifer Trzaskoma of Sioux Falls, SD. Barb Owen of Maple Ridge, Alberta was third in 23:57, the final sub-24 finisher. Ninety-five of the 148 runners completed the race, a finish rate of 64%, about 6% lower than the average finish rate at Lean Horse. However, over a third of those who did finish did so relatively quickly and earned sub-24 buckles. Also notable was the finish of Ulli Kamm, aka “Ulli the Walker”, who is the only competitor to have completed every Lean Horse 100. In recognition of his achievement and as a thank you for his promotion of the event, Ulli was presented with a special award at the pre-race meeting.
In the 50 mile race, Jeremy Morris of Kearney, NE, ran a strong 7:05 for the win, outpacing first female Kathy Youngren, also from Huntsville, AL, by 20 minutes. In the 50K event, which was run in the opposite (i.e., uphill) direction from 2009, Todd Falker from Saint Louis, MO, ran a 4:31 for the overall victory with Bernita Lovelace of Conway, AR, securing the women’s victory with a 5:41 finish.
The sixth annual Lean Horse Ultra was not only notable for the success of first time finishers, but also for the presence of home state runners. In the first five years of the Lean Horse 100, only six South Dakotans had finished the 100 mile race with none finishing in 2009. In 2010, seventeen South Dakotans started the 100 mile race, the first year that South Dakota was more heavily represented than any other state. Eight of those 17 went on to earn belt buckles, exceeding the number of finishers from the previous five years combined. Two of the eight South Dakotan finishers were in the top 10 and five earned sub-24 buckles.
Over the past six years, the Lean Horse family has grown significantly and continues to grow. Each year is an opportunity to catch up with old friends and meet new ones, all while taking on the challenge of covering long distances on foot through the beautiful southern and central Black Hills. From the intermingled grasslands and pine forests along Argyle Road to the stunning rock formations and Crazy Horse mountain-carving-in-progress along the Mickelson Trail to the serenity of running through a moonlit (or, sometimes, lightning-lit) South Dakota night, the Lean Horse course offers a spectacular venue, whether you are seeking a fast time or just aspiring to take on an ultramarathon. We look forward to next year’s seventh annual family reunion.
We also look forward to welcoming a new addition to the family. Lean Horse is currently the only ultramarathon held in South Dakota, but that is soon to change. Set to debut in June 2011, the Black Hills 100 is designed to be Lean Horse’s evil twin, offering a rugged, single track out and back course on the Centennial Trail in the northern Black Hills. Black Hills will not be friendly to first timers. Nor will it be friendly to veterans, for that matter. In addition to the 100 mile race, there will also be a 50 mile and the all-too-rare 100K with all three races beginning and ending in legendary Sturgis, SD (home of the biggest motorcycle rally in the nation). More information is available at www.blackhills100.com.
